USED TESLA CHECKLIST

1. HARDWARE VERSION — THE MOST IMPORTANT THING

The hardware version (HW) determines what Autopilot and FSD features the car can ever run — now and in the future. It is never mentioned in used car listings, but it's the single biggest factor in long-term value. All cars built after mid-2023 are HW4.

2. FSD STATUS — WHAT ACTUALLY TRANSFERS

Full Self-Driving (FSD) was a $5,000–$15,000 option that many sellers assume adds value. The reality is more complicated.

3. BATTERY HEALTH — NO OFFICIAL READOUT EXISTS

Unlike some EVs, Teslas don't show a state-of-health percentage on the dash. You have to estimate or request a service report.

DIY ESTIMATE

• Charge to 100%, read the projected range. Compare to original EPA rating for that model/year. A 5-year-old Model Y with HW3 that shows 270 mi at 100% (vs. 330 mi new) has ~82% health — normal. Below 75% is worth negotiating over.
• Check the range at your typical charge level. Most owners charge to 80–90%. Ask the seller what they see at 80% and work backwards.
• Look for range jump on the dash. Unstable range estimates that jump around as you drive are a sign of cell imbalance.

THIRD-PARTY TOOLS

• Recurrent Auto (recurrentauto.com) — Free battery health report if the seller shares their data. Shows actual degradation curve vs. similar vehicles.
• ScanMyTesla — OBD2 app that shows cell-level voltages and true state of health. Requires owner to run the scan and share results.
• Tesla Service Battery Report — Request this from a Tesla Service Center pre-purchase. They can pull supercharging history, cycle count, and cell health data.

4. SOFTWARE VERSION & CONNECTIVITY

Tesla updates software over Wi-Fi and LTE. A car on a very old software version is a yellow flag.

• Check current SW version: Controls → Software on the touchscreen. Note the version number.
• Compare to current release. Tesla typically releases updates every few weeks. A car that's 6+ months behind may have connectivity issues, a SIM card problem, or may have been kept in offline/demo mode by a dealer.
• Old software ≠ old car. Dealers sometimes put cars in "store mode" which pauses updates. Reconnecting to your account usually resumes normal OTA updates.
• Verify cellular connectivity works. On the car's nav screen, check that it loads live traffic and shows cell signal. Dead cellular = expensive repair (modem replacement).

5. THE 10 QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE YOU BUY

• 01
  What hardware version is this car? Ask them to go to Controls → Software and confirm HW3 or HW4. Non-negotiable — you need this number. → If they don't know how to check, that's a red flag about dealer knowledge.
• 02
  Does FSD transfer to me as the new owner? The correct answer is: no, FSD does not transfer (post-Oct 2022). If they say yes, be skeptical. Verify via your Tesla account after taking delivery. → Don't pay extra for "included FSD" — it almost certainly won't be on your account.
• 03
  What does the range show at 100% charge? Compare to the EPA rating for that specific model/year/trim. This is your battery health proxy. → Ask them to charge it to 100% before your test drive, or check in the app.
• 04
  Can I see the Tesla service history? Request a printout or ask them to request the service records from Tesla. Shows any battery replacements, high-voltage work, or recurring issues. → You can also request this yourself via Tesla Service Center with the VIN.
• 05
  Has this car been in a collision? Tesla vehicles log collision data internally. A Carfax check covers reported accidents, but Tesla's internal data can reveal minor incidents that weren't reported. → Request a Carfax and check all four corners of the car for panel gap inconsistencies.
• 06
  Does the car have free unlimited Supercharging? Some early cars had this as a promotion. Check the VIN via your Tesla account — it will show if Supercharging is included. → Go to tesla.com/addvehicle and enter the VIN while logged in to your Tesla account.
• 07
  What's the Autopilot mileage vs. total mileage? Check Controls → Autopilot → View Autopilot data (or in service menu). High Autopilot percentage on highway miles is generally fine. Very high Autopilot with low total miles may indicate a fleet/shuttle vehicle.
• 08
  Are there any open recalls? Tesla has had numerous Autopilot and camera-related recalls since 2022. Most were fixed via OTA, but confirm they've been applied. → Check NHTSA VIN lookup: vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/api/vehicles/GetRecallsByVehicleId
• 09
  Has the 12V battery been replaced? Tesla replaced the traditional 12V battery with a lithium-ion unit on newer models. Older cars still use lead-acid. The 12V is a known weak point — ask when it was last replaced or if the car has ever shown a 12V warning.
• 10
  Is there any Supercharger throttling on this VIN? Tesla can throttle DC fast charging on cars that have been subject to abuse, flooding, or certain damage. A service center can confirm whether the car has any charging limitations on its account. → A 30-minute Supercharger session during the test drive will reveal any throttling — watch the peak kW rate.

6. RED FLAGS — WALK AWAY OR NEGOTIATE HARD

• Seller adds a premium for "FSD included" — FSD doesn't transfer to new owners (post Oct 2022). Don't pay for something you won't receive.
• Dealer can't tell you the hardware version — Any legitimate Tesla-knowledgeable seller knows this. Ignorance here suggests they haven't inspected the car properly.
• Range at 100% is below 80% of original EPA — Beyond normal degradation for anything under 6 years old. Either battery work is needed or the cells were abused.
• Software is many months out of date — May indicate offline car, connectivity hardware failure, or the car has been sitting at auction/dealer without connecting to Tesla's network.
• Salvage or rebuilt title — Insurance won't cover at full value. Tesla may restrict OTA updates. Some service centers won't work on them.
• Excessive Supercharger sessions relative to mileage — Thousands of DC fast charges on a low-mileage car suggests fleet or commercial use with aggressive charging habits.
• Panel gaps, paint mismatch, or misaligned bumpers — Indicates post-accident repair work, which may not show on Carfax if it was a cash repair.
• No response to VIN check request — If the dealer or seller won't let you run the VIN through NHTSA or a service center, ask why.

7. USING THIS INFORMATION TO NEGOTIATE

• HW2.5 vs. HW3: An HW2.5 car cannot run any current FSD software. If two similar-year cars are priced the same, the HW3 one is worth meaningfully more. Use this to push down an HW2.5 price by $1,500–3,000.
• HW3 vs. HW4: HW4 is future-proofed. For similar model years at similar miles, an HW3 car should trade $2,000–4,000 below an HW4 equivalent.
• Battery below 85% SoH: Negotiate $1,500–3,500 off list price depending on how far below threshold it is. A battery replacement (if ever needed) costs $10,000–20,000.
• "FSD included" premium: If the seller has added $3,000–5,000 to the price for FSD, push back — it doesn't transfer. The hardware is already in the car regardless.
• Recall still open: Tesla fixes most recalls via OTA for free, but if the car has an open recall that requires a service visit, you inherit the scheduling burden. Use it to negotiate.
• Old software version: Minor issue, but evidence the car hasn't been connected. Could mean connectivity hardware issues that cost $500–1,500 to resolve at a service center.

8. VIN LOOKUP & RESEARCH TOOLS

Run these before you buy — most are free.